1) Canine and Feline Ear Anatomy
The first thing you should understand when cleaning your pet’s ears is basic anatomy. Humans only have a horizontal canal, leaving the tympanic membrane and, thusly, the inner ear more exposed. Dogs and cats, however, have both a horizontal and a vertical canal. This leaves the tympanic membrane and the inner ear protected and much more difficult to damage during cleanings. However, this also leaves pets at higher risk of infections and makes the ears harder to clean.
2) Appropriate Materials
I recommend pet parents avoid the use of cotton swabs or Q-Tips, which can cause potential tissue damage should your pet shake its head while the swab is in the ear. I also recommend avoiding cotton balls as they may get stuck in the ear canal. Paper towels and wash cloths are too abrasive for cleanings and toilet paper crumbles too easily. The best product to use is non-woven gauze squares. You can get them in packs of ten or twenty at Wal-Mart or Target in the wound care aisle for around three to five dollars. Amazon has them available in larger quantities for eight dollars and up. It’s important that you get the non-woven, however, as the woven are also too rough and can cause potential tissue trauma.
3) Cleaning Solutions
Preferred cleaning solutions vary depending on your veterinarian. Most private practices, in my experience, utilize and offer Epi-Otic for ear cleanings. Banfield Pet Hospitals, a corporate chain, prescribe Oticetic (non-medicated) or Epikalm for routine cleanings. One Veterinarian I spoke with also suggested Zymox products, if getting something over-the-counter through Chewy.com, Petsmart, or other pet supply companies.
Regardless of the product you choose, one of the key active ingredients you want to look for is an acid drying agent. Oticetic contains Acetic and Boric acids that stop the growth of bacteria and fungus. Epi-Otic and Epikalm contain salicylic acid that dries out the ear canal during cleanings, preventing environments ideal for bacterial and fungal growth (warmth and moisture). These are just the more common products. Some veterinarians use other brands, such as Keto-C or MalAcetic, that prevent infections similarly.
Avoid using anything that isn’t specifically formulated for use in ears and never use water alone. The combination of moisture and the warmth inside the ear creates an opportunistic climate for bacterial and yeast overgrowth, which can lead to infections. Consult your veterinarian if you suspect your pet has an ear infection prior to cleaning. The debris in an infected ear is necessary to diagnose the type of infection and, thusly, the appropriate medications and treatments.
4) Signs of Infection
Recognizing potential infections is pretty straight forward. Behaviorally, if your pet seems to be scratching at their ears or shaking their head frequently, an infection can be the culprit. Furthermore, if any of the following are noted on examination of your pet’s ears, a veterinarian should be consulted prior to doing anything further:
-Red and inflamed pinnae (external ear body)
-Pinnae are warm and sensitive to the touch
-Ear canals appear swollen
-Moderate to significant amount of yellow, brown, or black debris is visible
-Ears smell yeasty or otherwise malodorous
5) Cleaning Techniques
Use of appropriate techniques when cleaning ears has multiple benefits:
-avoids accidental trauma
-makes it less stressful or traumatic to your pet
-helps your pet be more cooperative for cleanings
-ensures ears are effectively and thoroughly cleaned
-can prevent infections from forming
When cleaning dog ears, gently introduce a sufficient amount of cleaning solution (typically 2-3 gentle squeezes of the bottle.) Close the pinna together and massage the solution into the ear to break up debris. Open the gauze square and wrap it around your index finger then swipe the debris and solution from the ear in a hooked outward motion. Continue to do this until your gauze square comes back clean. If you should see a tinge of red on you gauze square, don’t panic but stop the cleaning at this point. Remember, the tissue inside the ear is sensitive so this can occur. It will be okay to proceed with cleaning at the next session.
Now, cats are a bit different and opinions still vary from one veterinary professional to another. The angle from the vertical to horizontal canal can be smaller, as well as the overall size (except in the case of some small dogs.) Because of this, many veterinary professionals advise against squeezing the solution directly into the ear, as is done with dogs. Instead, it is recommended to wet your gauze squares with solution, wrap it around the tip of your finger, place it in the ear, and massage gently. This releases smaller amounts of solution into the ear in a gentler manner whilst also working to break up ear debris. Then perform the same hooked outward sweep to clean debris from the ear.
6) Frequency of Cleanings
Frequency of routine ear cleanings depends on breed, predisposition, and any history of recurring infections. Generally speaking, it should be sufficient to clean your dog’s ears once every four to six weeks. If debris begins to build up sooner, simply adjust the frequency by a week until an appropriate schedule is found that fits your pet. Some floppier eared breeds or dogs who enjoy swimming regularly may need cleanings as frequently as every one to three weeks. Most cat ears can be managed with four to six weeks, if not longer, between cleanings.
7) Breeds and Predispositions
Some breeds I’ve seen to have frequent, more severe, or recurring ear infections include:
-Basset Hound -Beagle -Bulldog
-Shar-Pei -Spaniel -Lhasa Apso
-Labrador -Shih Tzu -Terrier
-Retriever -Collie -Rottweiler
-Labradoodle -Pug -Irish Setter
This is by no means a conclusive list but rather those that I’ve seen more commonly. Of course, any mixed breed with parentage from this list can also be at risk of infections.
In closing, let me say this. All dogs, and cats, are unique and should be treated thusly. So, figure out what works best for your pet and I trust these tips will help.